A Small Guide to Seoul
서울 · suh-ul · Visited and curated by André
Please find my list of recommendations for a beautiful time in Seoul below.
Eat
IDA Seosulla-gil
GO ’26 Contemporary Korean cooking and natural wine on Seosulla-gil, the quiet craft lane along the Jongmyo shrine wall; a short menu that moves with the season. Nari’s House Itaewon
GO ’26 An old-school pork house going on thirty years; thinly sliced frozen pork belly (naengsam), a paper-ticket queue, worn tables, and a room still mostly locals. Geumdwaeji Sikdang Sindang-dong
GO ’26 Some of the city’s best samgyeopsal, from a premium YBD pig, in tteokbokki territory; no reservations, so put your name on the list mid-morning and wait it out.
Coffee
Cafe Onion Seongsu-dong
GO ’26 ◎ Specialty coffee and pastries in a 1970s metal factory left raw, all concrete and steel; afterwards wander Seongsu itself, the warehouse-turned-boutique quarter around it. Felt Coffee Gwanghwamun
GO ’26 A direct-trade specialty roaster with a designer’s eye; carefully sourced beans and a room to match, steps from Gwanghwamun. Fuga Coffee Gwanghwamun
GO ’26 A house-roasting bar on the Gwanghwamun Citywalk; its own beans, serious kit, and a caramel-deep macchiato to sit with.
Look
Leeum Museum of Art Hannam-dong
GO ’26 ◎ Samsung’s art museum above Hannam; the traditional wing especially, Mario Botta’s cool galleries climbing floor by floor through Goryeo celadon, Joseon white porcelain and buncheong ware, several of them national treasures. Deoksugung Jeong-dong
GO ’26 A palace by City Hall where hanok halls sit beside Western neoclassical ones; even just the loop around it, along the old stone wall, is the point.
Architecture
Hyundai Card Libraries across the city
GO ’26 Hyundai Card’s four libraries as design objects: Design in a Bukchon hanok, Music in Itaewon, Travel and Cooking in Gangnam; members’ spaces, so you need a cardholder to get in, but built with real seriousness. Dongdaemun Design Plaza Dongdaemun
GO ’26 Zaha Hadid’s aluminium wave set down in the Dongdaemun market grid; go for the building itself, though it can read more as an exhibit of its own curves than a place, and empties toward a ghost town off-hours.
Shop
Common Ground Konkuk University
GO ’26 A mall built from two hundred bright-blue shipping containers by Konkuk University; some fifty young Korean fashion and lifestyle labels stacked three storeys up.
A small ritual
The high and low of Yongsan Namsan → the Han
GO ’26 Yongsan in one arc of views: N Seoul Tower on Namsan above, Haebangchon spilling down the slope, and Nodeul Island out on the Han; a district that keeps handing you the city.