A Small Guide to Tokyo
東京 · toh-kyoh · Visited and curated by André
Please find my list of recommendations for a beautiful time in Tokyo below.
Eat
D47 Shokudo Shibuya
GO ’26 Set meals from Japan’s 47 prefectures, one region at a time; a teishoku education with the trains sliding by below Hikarie. TSUKIJIRO Tsukiji
GO ’26 Fresh seafood donburi at the Tsukiji outer market; a bowl of rice heaped with whatever landed that morning. Yoshidaya Tachiaigawa
GO ’26 A soba-kaiseki house in Tachiaigawa, as much for the garden as the food; handmade 100% buckwheat noodles, a signature duck soba, and proper tempura.
Coffee
Mameya Tokyo Omotesando
GO ’26 Specialty beans from all over the world, weighed out at a standing counter; worth every second on your feet. nadoya no katte Nishihara
GO ’26 Glitch single-origin light roasts poured in a beautifully stripped-back old wooden house; a quiet garden, mismatched furniture, and open only at weekends.
Look
The Japan Folk Crafts Museum Komaba
GO ’26 ◎ Mingei as a way of seeing: ordinary things, useful things, handmade things, given full attention. 21_21 DESIGN SIGHT Roppongi
GO ’26 ◎ Design treated as inquiry rather than lifestyle. A good room for seeing how Japan explains objects to itself. Okuno Building Ginza
GO ’26 ◌ Old Tokyo verticality: tiny galleries, worn corridors, and time still in the walls. d47 MUSEUM Shibuya
GO ’26 Design from all 47 prefectures, one exhibition at a time; the museum half of the d design travel project, up on the eighth floor of Hikarie. Gōtoku-ji Setagaya
GO ’26 The temple behind the beckoning cat; a hillside of white maneki-neko left as wishes, thousands of them, every one with a paw raised. The National Museum of Modern Art, Tokyo Kitanomaru
GO ’26 A century of Japanese modern art beside the palace moat; the fourth-floor room framing the Imperial garden is its own quiet exhibit. The Sumida Hokusai Museum Ryogoku
GO ’26 Hokusai returned to the Sumida streets where he was born; a deep collection behind Kazuyo Sejima’s angular, mirror-aluminium skin.
Architecture
21_21 DESIGN SIGHT Roppongi
GO ’26 Low, precise, and partly hidden. Architecture behaving more like a cut in the ground than a monument. The National Art Center, Tokyo Roppongi
GO ’26 Kisho Kurokawa’s undulating glass wall breathing along the street; a museum with no permanent collection, all space and light.
Shop
Maruni Higashi-Nihonbashi
GO ’26 Furniture, wood, proportion, restraint. A room where design feels slower than the city outside. LAMMAS / ISTINTO Toranomon
GO ’26 Cheese next door to wine; the kind of small specialization a city needs. SyuRo Torigoe
GO ’26 ◌ Objects for daily life, if the room lives up to the promise. NISHIGUCHI KUTSUSHITA Tokyo store Asakusabashi
GO ’26 Socks made like a craft, by people who treat the everyday as worth the care. Tokyobike Yanaka
GO ’26 City bikes built for cruising Tokyo rather than conquering it; the Yanaka shop carries the same unhurried idea into the neighbourhood around it. Azmaya Minami-Aoyama
GO ’26 Everyday Japanese homeware with quiet conviction; copper, brass, wood, and glass made to be used for decades. A few minutes from the Nezu. Nakagawa Masashichi Shibuya
GO ’26 The Shibuya branch of the 1716 Nara house; traditional craft made to live with now, from hemp cloth to small everyday objects. d47 design travel store Shibuya
GO ’26 Regional design shelved by prefecture, up in Hikarie; the d design travel guides turned into objects you can carry home. fog linen work Shimokitazawa
GO ’26 Washed linen for the everyday; cloth, aprons, bags, and quiet homeware from the studio that made it feel ordinary again. Maruzen Marunouchi
GO ’26 A grand multi-floor bookshop by Tokyo Station, in the Oazo building; foreign titles and stationery, and a café that claims to have invented hayashi rice. TRADMAN’S BONSAI Marunouchi
GO ’26 Bonsai with a streetwear attitude; old trees restyled for a younger Tokyo and shown like sculpture. Okume Tsukiji
GO ’26 ◎ Duck into the hidden market behind the fish market for Okume, dried-goods sellers since 1871; pick your dashi from katsuobushi, kombu, and dozens of options weighed out at the counter.
Beyond
Kamakura Kanagawa
GO ’26 ◎ The old coastal capital an hour south, worth the ride alone on the Enoden line that threads between houses and the sea. Hike the wooded hills from Kita-Kamakura to Sasuke Inari, a hidden shrine of red torii and white foxes where Yoritomo dreamed the army that made him shogun; then Kōtoku-in’s Great Buddha in Hase, bronze and open to the sky since a tsunami took its hall. Kanazawa Ishikawa
GO ’26 Two and a half hours north by shinkansen; the preserved samurai lanes of Nagamachi and SANAA’s round, wall-less 21st Century Museum, where Leandro Erlich’s pool lets you stand under the water.